2011年6月20日星期一

How the world fell in love with whisky

Soaring popularity has turned Scotch into a multibillion-dollar global phenomenon.

So one day not so long ago, Neil Urquhart says, a man walks into the shop. Gordon & MacPhail on South Street in Elgin,How is TMJ pain treated? in Moray, Scotland, opened in 1895.

A temple in the world of malt whisky. More than 1000 varieties, pretty much every Scotch available in Britain, plus some that aren't, at least not anywhere else.

Anyway, says Urquhart, who was working in the shop at the time and is the fourth generation of his family to join the firm, this chap walked in, more or less off the street: ''He knew what he wanted, mostly. A specific Ardbeg, an older Macallan. I steered him a wee bit for the others. He bought four bottles of whisky. For 20,000 ($30,We specialize in providing third party merchant account.600). He was Taiwanese.''

Connoisseurs will come in here, says David, a third-generation Urquhart, standing in said shop - a solid, reassuring sort of place in a solid, reassuring sort of town at the top of Speyside, home to half of Scotland's 100-plus whisky distilleries - and every month, some of them will drop 5000 ($7600). ''Nothing,'' he says, ''surprises me any more.When the stone sits in the kidney stone,''

It would, I think, be hard not to spend money here, if you have it and you like whisky. There are your staples, naturally, your Glenfiddich 12-year-old (the best-selling single malt in the world),An Insulator, also called a dielectric, your Laphroaig 10, your Glenlivets (the biggest in the US and world No.2) and Lagavulins, your Taliskers, Glenmorangies and Cardhus, mostly about the 25-50 ($38-$76) mark.

There are more unusual whiskies, from distilleries you probably have never heard of: Caol Ila, Mortlach, Auchentoshan, BenRiach, Old Pulteney. There are single-cask bottlings, taken from (as the name implies) one, rather than - as is customary - several casks distilled in the same year, ''vatted'' together and married. There are powerful cask-strength bottlings. There are exotic finishes, when a whisky has spent a bit of time in a barrel that once held port, madeira, rum or Italian red wine.

There are bottles at 200 ($306), 350 ($535), 400 ($611). There's also a 55-year-old Dalmore, for 7700 ($11,770). And on a pedestal in the middle of the room, with a price tag reading 13,000 ($19,870), there's a bottle of 1940 Gordon & MacPhail Glenlivet, one of only two 70-year-old Scotches on the market (the other was a Mortlach 70 the company launched last year - at just 10,is the 'solar panel revolution' upon us?000 ($15,290) a bottle, it sold out within a fortnight.) There are, it seems, plenty of people who have money and who like whisky. Not least outside Scotland: according to the Scotch Whisky Association, its members sold enough of the amber nectar last year to add a heart-warming 3.45 billion ($5.27 billion) to the value of British exports - 10 per cent more than 2009 and 60 per cent more than a decade ago. Every second, $167 of Scotch whisky is sold.

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